They say things were better in the old days! How fortunate that this claim isn't always true ... especially when it comes to Vinho Verde. It used to be known as a lemonade-like wine with barely 10% alcohol and lots of carbonation. Fortunately, that is no longer the case, as the new generation of winemakers aspires to measure their product up against the "crème de la crème" of the globalized wine world ... and they are succeeding!
During our first holiday in Madeira, my wife and I discovered the 2009 Vinho Verde from Sonía Vaz Osorío when we happened to have dinner at a small fish restaurant. The fish was, of course, also absolutely delicious, but it was the wine that really won us over. We liked it so much that we started going there almost every day from then on to drink another bottle of this wonderfully refreshing wine ...
This is how secluded the fish restaurant was ...
Our first bottle of Vinho Verde Quinta de Teamonde
Back in Berlin, I was determined to add the wine to our range and ordered a pallet of the 2009 vintage to offer it as a special for the asparagus season. At first, it wasn't entirely easy to convince our customers to buy a Portuguese wine from a Frenchman, let alone a Vinho Verde (see the clichés above)! However, this exotic wine quickly became a real bestseller. Many customers bought it by the case.
When the pallet sold out, I decided against reordering immediately. But months later, many customers were still asking for it ...
Stockfish drying in the sun on Madeira
Three years later, we were back in Madeira, this time with the whole family, so to speak as "Maître Philippe & daughters". Of course, we made a pilgrimage to the small fish restaurant again. And lo and behold, they still had the Vinho Verde from Quinta de Teamonde on the menu, and once again we were delighted. We had to have the wine again! The only problem was: the current vintage was already long sold out! Of course, we weren't discouraged by this, after all, we now had a goal.
Sonia's husband Alexandro, Maître Philippe, Philippe's wife Evelyne, Sonia Vaz Osorío
And it worked! We now know the winemaker Sonia Vaz-Osorío personally and have already visited her estate. However, the term "estate" is a bit of an exaggeration, as Sonia only cultivates 2 hectares, which she lovingly refers to as her bonsai vineyard. If you can't imagine what that means: 2 hectares are just enough to produce 10,000 bottles a year. And even then, only if the weather cooperates. Quinta de Teamonde is located in Vale de Cambra (the fertile valley) at the southern tip of the Norte region in the north of the country, between the Douro and Minho rivers. About 25% of Portuguese wines come from this very damp area, where it rains frequently.
At the Quinta, Sonia does everything herself, because she is a control freak, but in a positive sense: she simply wants to be 100% sure that everything goes exactly as she envisions it. She acquired her oenological knowledge, among other things, by studying oenology under the "Pope of White Wines", Professor Denis Dubourdieu, in Bordeaux.
The new Vinho Verde 2013
"And what is the wine like?" you might ask. We chose the 2013 vintage because it is much more harmonious than the 2014 vintage. It is made from three indigenous grape varieties: 65% Loureiro, 20% Arinto and 15% Trajadura, and has an alcohol content of 12%.
It is crisp and fresh, pure and transparent with beautiful green reflections. On the nose, it shows floral and fruity notes, e.g. of passionflower and apricot, and delights the palate with its finely integrated acidity and wonderful freshness. The finish is long and mineral. A very harmonious, round and wonderfully refreshing summer wine.
It is best enjoyed very well chilled (no warmer than 10°C), e.g. with asparagus and other fresh spring dishes.
The bottle for €7.95, the case of 6 for €45
