The wine region, renamed Península de Setúbal in 2009, is also known by the more sonorous regional designation “Terras do Sado.”
The land around the Sado River lies on the Setúbal peninsula. With its breathtaking coastline, it is not only a popular holiday destination but also the Vinho Regional area for table wines in central Portugal.
The quality wine-growing area was founded in 1907 and, because of its rich and ancient history, has a protected name.
This name may be used exclusively by Muscatels (Moscatel), which possess a very fine aroma and are among the classics of the wine world.
The table wine appellation extends into the hinterland, just a few kilometers from Lisbon. It lies between the mouths of the Sado and Tagus rivers and, thanks to its geographical proximity to the capital, is ideal for winegrowers.
The vineyard area covers approximately 10,000 hectares and is divided into two zones with different soil conditions. On one side, there is a hilly landscape with clay and limestone soils, on which the vineyards extend to altitudes of up to 500 meters.
In the second zone, which makes up 80% of the area, the wine is grown in flat terrain on lean, sandy soil. This area also contains the two DOCs of Setúbal and Palmela.
DOC Setúbal
In this DOC, the vines grow on limestone, sandy, and clay soils.
Setúbal is particularly famous for its liqueur wine Moscatel. This wine gained fame as early as the 17th century and was even sent to Versailles at the request of the French King Louis XIV.
Only if this unique liqueur wine consists of at least 85% of the Moscatel de Setúbal grape and contains small proportions of the Arinto, Boal Branco, Moscatel Douro, and Moscatel Roxo varieties may it also be called Moscatel de Setúbal.
However, if the wine contains less than 85% but at least 67% of the Muscatel variety, it may be called Setúbal.
DOC Palmela
This DOC is characterized by its proximity to the Atlantic and its Mediterranean climate.
Summers here are hot and dry, while winters are often rainy. Sandy soils predominate here. However, the hilly areas, which are much better suited for viticulture, consist mainly of limestone and clay.
Despite the soils having little structure, they contain sufficiently large voids. These ensure good aeration and water movement.
Thus, thanks to their excellent drainage potential, they provide superb terrain for growing red wine grapes. The good soil structure ensures a consistently good harvest and plays a decisive role in determining the flavor of the finished wine.
History and Development of Viticulture in the Península de Setúbal
As early as the mid-19th century, the Península de Setúbal was a thriving commercial center.
Its wine-growing area, covering 4,000 hectares at the time, was the largest in the country and a stronghold of wine culture.
In recent years, the region has reached an astonishing level: The opening of the new Ponte Vasco da Gama, the bridge over the Tagus, led to a further revitalization of the local wine culture. The bridge has now created a connection to Lisbon. Consequently, part of the capital has expanded onto the peninsula.
The two large, long-established wineries José Maria da Fonseca and Bacalhôa-Vinhos helped develop the wines and enhance their already high quality. Several smaller and younger wineries are also doing their part, doing their best to ensure further growth.
A Wide Selection of Wines in Terras do Sado
Between 300,000 and 400,000 liters of wine are produced annually on 10,000 hectares of vineyard. The wines from the peninsula offer a wide range of characteristics. The white wines are characterized by a highly aromatic, floral aroma. The rosé is fresh and fruity, while the red wine is well-structured with notes of forest fruits.
Another very special product from the DOC Setúbal is the fine Moscatel liqueur wine. It is a sweet, yet never cloying, dessert wine with a high alcohol content. It offers a wealth of exotic aromas and often contains nuances of orange peel, cinnamon, and coriander.
Whether wines from the DOC areas with controlled designations are preferred or the preference lies with wines bearing the Vinho Regional designation: Terras do Sado offers a wide range of flavors and, with this diverse selection, has something for almost everyone.
The Dominance of the Castelão Grape
The Castelão grape has been cultivated here since 1850 and is thus one of Portugal's oldest varieties.
It was first planted in the vineyard called Cova de Periquita, which is why this red wine grape is also affectionately called Periquita in the north of the country.
The region's harsh conditions provide ideal conditions for the red grape variety that dominates here. Although it can be found throughout Portugal, it performs better in the south of the country, especially in the DOC Palmela.
How popular this wine was is proven by the win of a gold medal at the Berlin Wine Fair for the 1886 vintage in 1888, which marked the start of the grape's international career.
From then on, Periquita production increased enormously, and the wine was henceforth exported in large quantities to England, France, and Spain. Under its new name, Castelão, the grape is now definitely the dominant variety across the entire peninsula: it accounts for around three-quarters of the region's total cultivation.
The 1960s brought a change in style: the new Periquita now contains 70% Castelão, 20% Trincadeira, and 10% Aragonez, and due to its composition, it can be classified as Vinho Regional. This change was attributed to the necessary adaptation to modern times.
However, Periquita remains a Portuguese classic with iconic status, whose transformation was mainly caused by changing consumer tastes.
The range of styles produced by local winegrowers is extremely impressive. In addition to varietal table wines, which are described as "delicate and fruity drops," a number of quality wines are also available.
For example, varietal wines whose ripe grapes are trodden by foot and aged for one year in French barriques. This produces a powerful, refined wine with wonderfully deep notes of herbs, red berries, and vanilla.
However, Castelão is also often used to make cuvées and blended with other grape varieties. Successful examples include regional wines with a total of one-tenth Cabernet Sauvignon, Trincadeira, and Alicante Bouschet.
The Red Wine Experiment
No matter how dominant the Castelão variety may be, there are winegrowers who can and choose to live without it. To meet the demands of a globalized and international wine palate, local winemakers pay attention to greater diversity and therefore also like to grow various other grape varieties.
It is certainly not only the range of wines on offer that makes the area so popular, even as a holiday destination. Due to the number of different grape varieties, the wines of the Península de Setúbal exhibit very different characteristics.
On a total of around 1,000 hectares, international varieties are also grown. Popular grapes such as the French Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are found here, but also the Spanish Carignan grape alongside the native varieties Aragonez, Bastardo, Touriga Nacional, and Moscatel Roxo.
The great variety of grape varieties shows that the region's spirit of experimentation is still alive.
This is particularly evident in the distinctive local spice of the Meia Pipa from Bacalhôa. The same applies to the fruity and spicy Serras de Azeitão, which is characterized by dark berry and cherry notes. Nevertheless, these combinations are still in the minority, at least for now, even though they have already gained international acceptance.
In summary, it can be said that the Península de Setúbal region offers a great variety of red wines and does not need to shy away from international comparison at a high level.
The Rare Rosé Wines
Despite the hot summers, the dreamy beaches, and the many tourists who would surely flock to them, only a few rosés are offered in the region.
Wines with a lot of Aragonez are noteworthy, exhibiting a subtle berry note and distinguished by an uncomplicated flavor.
The Great Variety of White Wines
In contrast to rosé, the selection of white wines is considerably more extensive, even though white grapes play a rather minor role in the region.
The grape variety Fernão Pires is particularly noteworthy, with 9% alcohol content, making it the most widely planted variety.
Arinto and Moscatel are often blended together. For example, Fonseca combines around 80% of these two varieties, creating a floral, intense flavor with rich fruit aromas.
In a different ratio, the Cooperativa Agrícola Santo Isidro de Pegões blends 70% Fernão Pires, 20% Moscatel, and 10% Arinto. The result is tropical and spicy, with high acidity.
However, Moscatel can also be enjoyed without a cuvée partner. As a varietal wine, it is fruity, fresh, and balanced.
Cuvées with national and international varieties can also be identified among the white wines, such as those with one-third each of Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, and Arinto.
The Liqueur Wines of Terras do Sado
The Setúbal region is also known for its highest quality liqueur wines. The white Moscatel de Setúbal is world-famous. A red version called Moscatel Roxo is produced in much smaller quantities.
Moscatel from Setúbal is the third major dessert wine in Portugal, alongside the famous Madeira and Vinho Generoso. It consists of 85 to 100% Muscatel, with small amounts of varieties such as Arinto, Boais, Rabo de Ovelha, Roupeiro, or Tamarez added.
As Moscatel is one of the oldest quality wines, it is considered a great classic in the region. It has an intense, complex fruit aroma with notes of honey and roasted nuts.
Precisely because of its popularity, there are always imitators. This is why a protected name for the Setúbal region was established as early as 1907 to protect Moscatel.
Only those with vineyard area in the sub-regions around the municipalities of Palmela, Setúbal, Montijo, and Sesimbra may offer their wine under the designation Moscatel de Setúbal or Moscatel Roxo.
The Production of Moscatel de Setúbal
The production of Moscatel de Setúbal does not differ from that of other dessert wines and proceeds as follows:
After harvest, the grapes are macerated, and fermentation is stopped by adding alcohol. The natural sweetness of the berries then rests for several months. Only then is the wine pressed and filtered. After aging for approximately 3 to 4 years, the full-bodied wine can be bottled and is ready to drink.
However, its true pleasure only unfolds with age. After around 8 to 10 years, notes of dried fruit, coffee, and caramel develop. Some producers therefore age their Moscatel in smaller quantities for up to 20 years.
The previously mentioned Moscatel Roxo, which is produced in smaller quantities than its famous white counterpart, generally has similar characteristics to Moscatel de Setúbal.
It offers a complex aromatic palette with notes of bitter orange, figs, raisins, and hazelnuts.
Moscatel Roxo demonstrates the flavor heights that can be achieved with a longer aging period (approx. 9 years). It possesses an incredible wealth of aromas.
Although changing drinking habits have reduced the cultivation area of Moscatel Roxo to 330 hectares, anyone who has tried this wine classic will remain loyal to it.
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